There hasn’t been enough food coming out of my kitchen lately. After exam week, Joe and I took a much needed vacation in Montreal. We got home Wednesday and now I’m in Chicago for the National Restaurant Show.
Surrounded by good food for weeks, yet my heart yearns to cook.
Soon, there will be a new recipe. In the meantime, I thought I’d share our Montreal trip with you. (Almost every picture we took had to do with food…)
Our Favorites
Schwartz’s Deli
After checking in at Les Aubergine de Passant San Soucy, a regal and hospitable bed and breakfast, Joe and I had our minds set on Schwartz’s Deli. They’ve been turning out smoked meat since 1928. Starving and not sure how to use the metro, we set out on foot for our destination. A mile and a half later, we stepped into a packed no-frills diner with what looked like it’s original tables and chairs.
The menu was simple – smoked meat – lean, medium, or fat. Smoked chicken. Hot dogs, a beef stick called nash, big dill pickles, french fries, cole slaw and soda. There were a couple of liver dishes and a steak, too, but a quick glance around the room and it was clear that everyone liked the smoked meat.
I got an order of lean smoked meat, no bread, with a pickle. Joe had medium smoked meat with bread, a pickle, and fries. Covered in yellow mustard, each bite accompanied by a small slice of dill, the meat was perfectly tender and smoky. We dove in and didn’t talk until our plates were clean, only making eye contact and smiling.
We ate at Schwartz’s twice.
Marche de Jean Talon
Joy and magic were in the air at this incredible open market. Artisan cheese makers, fresh seafood vendors, chocolatiers, local farmers, eateries, and specialty coffee roasters all proudly offered samples, temping us at every turn.
I had my very first fiddlehead fern simply sautéed in garlic, butter, salt and pepper.
We walked through row after row of produce not easily found in Dallas.
Morels.
Blue skinned potatoes.
Organically grown micro greens and edible flowers.
The sweetest, juiciest pears I’ve ever tasted.
And, best of all, this is where I fell in love with Buckwheat Crepes. Most eateries speak both English and French, but this creperie had a limited understanding of English and I don’t speak French unless you count “toilet homme,” “toliet femme,” and “bonjour.” Fortunately, there was a kind lady in line ahead of us who had a sister who was wheat intolerant. She overheard our ordering dilemma and successfully translated for me. No béchamel for me, but that was perfectly ok.

I felt my eyes welling up with tears as I took one bite after the other. Joe took a few bites, and though he loved it, couldn’t bring himself to eat any more once he saw my streaked cheeks.
I’ve made crepes more times than I have fingers but I’ve never been able to eat one that someone else has made. It was proper Breton style, paper thin, and crispy around the edges. Rich with earthy buckwheat and filled with asparagus, mushrooms, and ham, it was just right in every way.
Une Crepe?
Naturally, I set out to find the best buckwheat crepes in Montreal. After tireless searching, I happened upon an abandoned blog of maybe 10 posts that reviewed the local creperies. Une Crepe? received a 10 out of 10, so there was nothing left to do but eat one and find out for myself.
I called ahead to ask some questions and, in broken English, the smooth french voice at the other end of the phone assured me that they would make a gluten-free crepe with the fillings of my choosing.

This crepe was even better than the one at the market – filled with pears, walnuts, and dates and lightly drizzled with local honey. Joe and I think we’ve discovered a new food group.
Planning My Food for Our Trip
Despite my best efforts, there were a couple of snags. Our first night there, I called ahead and verified what I was able to eat at a popular restaurant. We ordered dinner and I double checked with our waitress who thought my meal was safe but it turned out that the dish contained wheat. We left without eating and I was on the verge of tears – mostly from being tired and hungry, but also because I was at square one with no clue as to where we could have dinner. We ended up at a Mexican restaurant which wasn’t my first choice but at least it was gluten-free and sugar-free.
There were a couple of other times when we hasn’t made any specific plans and bounced from place to place, checking out the menus. Joe is always wonderfully supportive which makes travel so much easier.
**Note: The places above are not certified gluten-free restaurants; instead they made meals that I can safely eat with my given food intolerances.
What have you been cooking lately? I’d love to know as my poor kitchen has been neglected.




















Jenny B. Jones
posted on May 23, 2010 at 9:36 pm
Very interesting post to me because I’m about to go on my first vacation as a GF girl. So glad to accidentally find your site today because there are lots of gf recipes sites, but few gluten free AND healthy. Great job!
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Amy Reply:
May 23rd, 2010 at 9:46 pm
@Jenny B. Jones, Thanks for the feedback. Best of luck on your trip. I wrote this post on eating out gluten-free – it might help you as you embark on this new way of life. I hope you have a fantastic trip!! Hugs!
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Michelle (Health Food Lover)
posted on May 24, 2010 at 4:52 am
Some great pictures you took Amy!
What were the fiddlehead ferns like? I can’t even begin to imagine their texture! Looks very unique.
Those crepes sound delicious; especially the one with dates, walnuts, pears and honey! Is that a star fruit next to those crepes? Beautiful.
It’s funny I’m not a gf-er but when I make crepes the only kind I make are buckwheat!
What I’ve been cooking lately- well today I made some naughty chocolate & banana brownies (oh they are so good) that I made with Spelt. I’m planning on making a gluten free version sometime soon. I love a good cooking challenged! Last week I did make a gf and dairy free pumpkin pie! Really good too!
By the way Amy, I gave you a blog award
http://healthfoodlover.com/hfl/2010/05/22/versatile-blogger-awards/
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Hallie @ Daily Bites
posted on May 24, 2010 at 7:27 am
Sounds like a delicious trip! I’ve been doing a lot of no-cook meals lately as we’ve had temps in the 90s here in WI (I know…probably seems cool to you in Dallas!). Lots of salads, coleslaws, smoothies, GF SF popsicles, and fresh fruit.
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Jenn AKA The Leftover Queen
posted on May 24, 2010 at 11:20 am
We must be on the same wavelength Amy! I made buckwheat crepes for breakfast yesterday morning! Delicious! I will have to come up with some yummy fillings in the future – we just did berries and maple! YUM.
I can’t believe you were in my neck of the woods and we didn’t meet up, I am about 2 hours from Montreal! It is a beautiful city, and one we enjoy regular visits to. I will have to check out Une Crepe!
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Ashlie
posted on May 24, 2010 at 12:04 pm
I really want to go to Montreal now! Definetly added to my to do list
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Katah Kenehan Reply:
August 2nd, 2011 at 4:26 pm
@Ashlie, I am currently living just outside of Montreal (summer french exchange program), and I can guarantee that you’d like it! Try also Zero8 (it’s in the Latin Quartier, slightly expensive, but deliciously free of the top 8 allergens), and I would recommend O Noir (this is a restaurant where everything is completely in the dark and the waiters are blind, while the restaurant is not gluten free, they knew exactly what they were doing- they have lots of G free clients). It too is slightly pricy but the experience is 100% worth it. Also, there are several italian restaurants that accomodate, and a chain (I think called Commensal- starts with a c and is vegetarian- that has g free options marked on the menu). Also, Crudessence on Rachel has many G Free options!
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Alta
posted on May 24, 2010 at 12:35 pm
Wow – I have never been anywhere near Montreal! Sounds like a lovely place to visit. And I totally understand the emotions (both good and bad) surrounding your eating out experiences. It’s amazing for those of us that suffer from food intolerances to eat something that is so good, and usually forbidden. Sometimes, they are things that “normal” people wouldn’t give a second thought, but for us, they’re special. Same with the bad – it’s so frustrating sometimes – especially if you’re tired and hungry – to not be able to eat out somewhere that you thought would be safe. (Albeit that’s slightly better than finding out afterwards that it wasn’t safe!) So glad you had a good trip. I am really wanting some crepes now.
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Donna
posted on May 24, 2010 at 1:44 pm
I’m so jealous!! I’m originally from Maine, and grew up eating fiddleheads and lobster! My family would go to a certain stream and harvest the fiddleheads because they grew wild as well as strawberries, blueberries raspberries, and blackberries.
I never went to Montreal, but I have relatives around there. I remember them visiting us when I was a child, and remember one of them had a restaurant there. My family is French, but I never learned to speak it other than a few words.
I still have many relatives in Maine. I live in Oregon now, as far away from Maine as you can get, but my heart will always be in Maine!!
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Debi
posted on May 24, 2010 at 3:29 pm
Amy, thank you so much for sharing. My husband and I were just in Chicago and I had to plan what to eat on the way up in the car. My cousin was wonderful and checked out places specifically gluten-free before we got there. While we were able to eat at other places, I was thankful to her for doing that for me. Traveling while gluten-free isn’t easy at all but you’ve been an inspiration since I found your blog a few months ago.
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Jen Cafferty
posted on May 26, 2010 at 12:27 pm
Amy – I love Schwartz’s and haven’t been there in years! Before I was gluten-free, my husband and I took a trip to Montreal and brought our smoked meat sandwiches to the airport. I think we stunk up the whole terminal eating our sandwiches – but it was worth every bite!! Thanks for bringing back great memories….and it was wonderful to finally meet you! Jen
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Amy Reply:
May 26th, 2010 at 1:34 pm
@Jen Cafferty, It was wonderful to meet you too! The NRA show was incredible – I’m working on a post right now to show everyone the wonderful work you’ve done. I am looking forward to the Gluten-Free Expo next year as well as seeing the gluten-free section of the NRA show grow.
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Chelsey
posted on May 28, 2010 at 11:29 am
Going Montreal is like a little taste of Europe inside of Canada. I have only had the chance to go once and what a trip.
The food is fantastic, no? I’m glad you had the chance to have gluten free/sugar free crepes and Montreal’s famous smoked meat.
What a romantic place to spend your vacation!
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Ricki
posted on May 29, 2010 at 9:14 am
I’m so glad you liked my home town!
And that second buckwheat crepe with dates and walnuts. . . oh, my. Now I want to attempt a buckwheat crepe at home! (Or maybe I’ll just wait until my text trip to Mtl). That’s really too bad about the place that promised GF and then included wheat. . . hope you let them know how unprofessional (and dangerous) that was!
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Tiffany
posted on July 22, 2010 at 4:29 pm
Oh Amy! I can’t tell you how thrilled I am to find this post! We are going to Montreal for vacation next May and now I can’t wait to have buckwheat crepes when we get there! We do have a place that makes those in ATL, but we were very disappointed with the taste. We mostly ate the filling and left the crust alone.
We’ll be in Montreal during our anniversary so my goal is to find at least one fancy (translation – expensive) restaurant to knock my socks off for gluten-free dinner. The Celiac Scene is revamping their gf info presently so it will be ready before we head off for our first ever Canadian vacation. Thanks again for this lovely post and great info. I knew about the market but no one told me about the gf crepes!
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Nicholle
posted on August 16, 2011 at 10:04 pm
Thank you for this. My husband and I are working hard toward gluten and sugar free, and are visiting Montreal RIGHT NOW! We have been struggling and ready to give up, but tomorrow we will hit up the market and also find us some buckwheat crepes!
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Amy Reply:
August 18th, 2011 at 9:35 am
@Nicholle, Joe and I talk about going back to Montreal all the time….I loved those crepes! Have a wonderful vacation!
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Anonymous
posted on December 5, 2011 at 9:04 pm
I live in Montreal, and there are two websites that you can check out to see where you can go to eat. restomontreal.com/english. Type in the search engine “Gluten-Free Dishes Available” and you’ll be able to see over 100 restaurants that offer gluten-free dining. Some have Gluten-free menus, others you have to call ahead, but they know what gluten-free is. The other is http://www.theceliacscene.com. Enjoy for whomever wishes to visit Montreal.
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Christine
posted on May 15, 2012 at 10:56 am
I’m just finding this post a couple years later, but it’s very helpful! I was just diagnosed with celiac and my husband and I already had a trip planned to Montreal. This will be our first experience eating gluten free while traveling, and I can’t wait to try the places you suggested. Thanks!
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Amy Reply:
May 15th, 2012 at 2:40 pm
@Christine, Make sure to ask if the food id gluten-free. I don’t have celiac disease so I don’t have severe reactions to foods others would.
Have fun!!! We love Montreal and often talk about going back.
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Erin Lane
posted on May 19, 2012 at 8:58 pm
Oh! I had to leave a restaurant (in tears) in Ottawa this winter. It was so horrible. I was terribly hungry and the most beautiful plate of food came out. With fried potoatos that were likely contaminated. The chef wasn’t willing to answer my quetion or come talk to me… so we had to leave. Terrible. I understand.
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Amy Reply:
May 21st, 2012 at 11:03 am
@Erin Lane, Ugh! Isn’t that awful! I wish all chefs were open to creating food for anyone. It’s hard though when you’re not familiar with the ingredients and how to use them.
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